Paris Fashion Week: The Bags, the Looks and What Comes Next

Some seasons are remembered for a silhouette. Others announce a colour or put one bag on everyone’s wish list.

At Paris Fashion Week, the interest was in how familiar things were changing. Tailoring loosened. Leather bags softened. House signatures appeared in unexpected places, from Dior’s lettered zip pulls to Louis Vuitton’s floral hardware.

The Spring/Summer 2027 womenswear shows ran from 28 September to 6 October. Across several major houses, there was a shared interest in clothes that move and bags with character. But each approached that idea differently.

Chanel: the classic bag gets a little less predictable

Matthieu Blazy opened and closed his show with Gabrielle Chanel’s own archival 2.55. It was a thoughtful starting point for a collection that explored how Chanel could retain its identity while taking on different moods.

Smocked tweed and sheer dresses brought softness to the clothes. Bird motifs added an imaginative thread.

The bags ranged from elongated hobos and softer shoppers to oversized CC closures and glossy croc-embossed finishes. A birdcage evening bag offered a more theatrical interpretation of the theme.

For MEA, the shoulder bags are the ones to watch. Their longer, more relaxed proportions could make Chanel feel at home with a less formal wardrobe. The evening pieces serve a different purpose: they are objects to enjoy for their imagination and craft.

Dior: a softer expression of a familiar name

Jonathan Anderson continued to explore lightness at Dior, with delicate fabrics and fluid shapes giving the collection a romantic quality.

That softness carried into the accessories. Woven leather changed the expression of the Lady Dior, while an asymmetrical Cannage satchel and a small bowler with long shoulder straps introduced fresh proportions. The Cigale, already part of Anderson’s Dior vocabulary, returned in metallic, patent and python versions.

The woven Lady Dior is particularly interesting. Changing the construction of such a recognisable bag can have more impact than adding another colour. It suggests a way to keep the design’s elegance while making its presence feel less formal.

Hermès: beyond the usual wish list

Hermès built its collection around relaxed precision. Belts, cords and zips shaped the clothes, while sheer fabrics, perforations and silk mesh gave them an airy quality. The effect combined an outdoor sensibility with the house’s exacting approach to materials.

The bag lineup offered plenty to explore. Runway coverage identified the Rênes tote and curved Saut hobo as new designs, alongside a fishnet bucket backpack. Archive-inspired styles returned, as did the Kelly Hobo.

This is a useful moment to widen the conversation around Hermès. A shoulder bag or lighter tote might answer a wardrobe need that a structured top handle does not. The new shapes deserve attention on their own terms.

Loewe: colour, craft and a new bag to watch

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez brought colour blocking and Spanish Baroque references into a collection grounded in the feel of clothes against the body. Nappa leather trapeze dresses, generous shirt dresses and glass-beaded pieces showed different sides of that approach.

LVMH’s collection report confirms two additions to the accessories offering: the Pasito bag and Puzzle Charm.

The Pasito is one to follow as its specifications emerge. Loewe has an established strength in making leather construction part of a bag’s appeal. The question now is how this new design develops that language.

Louis Vuitton: the flower becomes the signature

Nicolas Ghesquière explored movement through chiffon, scarves and lighter tailoring. Long tops over trousers stretched the silhouette, while embellished visors brought a futuristic accent.

The bags took a relatively pared-back direction. Pochette, hobo, flap and bowling shapes featured Monogram Flower details in hardware and leather attachments, with fewer familiar icons dominating the lineup.

It is an interesting way to express the house’s identity. A single floral detail can provide recognition while leaving the shape and leather room to make their own impression.

Miu Miu: sportswear with somewhere to go

Miu Miu’s collection gave athletic clothing a dressier context. Track trousers appeared with scarf tops and blazers, while embellished pieces met rash guards. The combinations had the slightly unexpected quality that makes the house’s styling worth studying.

The official show introduced Wrangler x Miu Miu Upcycled denim and a reworked New Balance RC150 sneaker. Among the bags, coverage highlighted the new duffle-inspired Retour, along with drawstring-sided totes and knotted shoulder designs.

This offers one of the easiest ideas to try now: take a polished bag out of its usual setting and wear it with something sporty. The change comes from the combination.

Celine: familiar clothes, individual choices

Michael Rider’s Celine mixed structured jackets and relaxed trousers with satin dresses, embroidery and scarf prints. Red, cobalt, fuchsia and green gave the collection energy, while accessories brought individuality to the outfits.

The bags included evening clutches, black patent styles and vivid red totes.

The appeal was in the range of possibilities. A bright tote and a glossy black bag can serve similar practical roles yet give the same clothes entirely different moods. Rider’s styling made that distinction feel worth exploring.

Givenchy: generous bags with intriguing details

Sarah Burton paired relaxed tailoring with fringe, floating fabrics and strong colour. The accessories continued that balance of ease and expression.

Large zippered shoulder bags revealed contrasting linings, while crescent shapes incorporated mirror details.

These are among the more promising everyday silhouettes to follow. Their proportions suggest usefulness, while the details give them distinction. Dimensions, weight and closures will tell us more when the collection reaches its final retail form.

Paris Fashion Week / Spring Summer 2027 / Runway / Bags / New & Noteworthy